1 Introduction
In my blog post “A Guide to Choosing the Right Size for Your Child’s Costume”, I discussed important considerations for choosing the size of your costume, or costume pattern for your bodysuit or leotard.
This post focuses on key pattern pieces for grading sizes (blending 2 sizes to make a custom size pattern piece), but it’s important to review all the pieces. There may be additional ones that need to be graded. For example, if you are adjusting length of the bodice, you may also need to adjust the length of the sleeve.
2 The Scenario:
Imagine you have two different sizes to blend—one based on girth (length) and the other on bust (width).
3 Before Grading - An Alternative:
If there is a difference of only one size between the girth and bust, consider using the larger size without grading. Cut the pattern, baste, then test the fit. You may only need a few slight modifications that can be accomplished through sewing, thereby saving time.
4 Supplies For Grading:
Tracing paper / medical paper
Regular paper/ craft paper
Ruler
French curve (optional)
Pencil, eraser
Tape
5 Grading Patterns for a Change in Length or Width:
Print and cut a copy of the pattern pieces for the bodysuit, or bodice and panty in both sizes. The panty will only be used for review purposes - see 8 - Tip.
If you want to use the pattern again, then trace a copy. Use the traced copy or use it to make your own paper copy.
6 Grading Pattern Girth (Length):
Locate the lengthen/shorten line on the front and back bodice pattern pieces of the size with the desired bust (width).
If absent, draw a horizontal line about an inch (2.5 cm) above the waist that is perpendicular to either the grainline or the fold line. On some patterns, the waist is marked with a line or notch. The waist is the narrowest part of the bodice. The lengthen/ shorten line should not be located where there are darts or other important lines.
6.1 Grading Pattern Girth - Make the Bodysuit Longer:
Draw 3 guidelines on a blank paper:
2 horizontal lines. The distance between these 2 lines should equal the additional girth length required divided by 2. (Half will be added to the front and half to the back bodice).
1 vertical line perpendicular to the horizontal lines.
Cut the pattern piece along the lengthen/ shorten line to divide it into 2 pieces – a top and bottom.
Place the top along the vertical and upper horizontal line, and tape.
Place the bottom along the vertical line and the lower horizontal line, and tape.
Confirm that the space between the top and bottom portions of the bodice pattern piece equal half of the additional girth to be added.
6.2 Grading Pattern Girth - Make the Bodysuit Shorter:
On the pattern piece, draw a line above, and parallel to, the lengthen/ shorten line. The distance between these 2 lines should be equal to the required girth reduction divided by 2. (Half of the girth reduction will be deducted from the front and half from the back.)
Fold the pattern piece along the lengthen/ shorten line to form a crease.
Fold up from the crease to the new horizontal line. Tape in place.
Confirm that the space removed equals half of the girth to be deducted.
6.3 Grading Pattern Girth - Final Steps:
Blend the pattern lines using a French curve, if available.
Cut the graded pattern piece.
Repeat for the back bodysuit/ bodice piece.
Match the front to the back to confirm that the side seam lengths are equal.
7 Grading Pattern Bust (Width):
7.1 Grading Pattern Width - Make the Bust Wider:
Tape the front pattern with the desired girth (length) size on a piece of paper.
Overlay larger bust (width) size on desired girth size.
Align center fronts at the top.
Redraw pattern lines at the bust to blend sizes using a French curve (if available). Blend the side seam into the smaller waist.
If your pattern has a front yoke (upper bodice), check if you need to grade it.
7.2 Grading Pattern Width - Make the Bust Narrower:
Tape the front pattern with the desired girth (length) size on a piece of paper.
Overlay smaller bust (width) size on desired girth size.
Align center fronts at the top.
Redraw pattern lines at the bust to blend sizes using a French curve (if available). Blend the side seam into the larger waist.
If your pattern has a front yoke (upper bodice), check if you need to grade it.
7.3 Grading Pattern Width – Final Steps:
Confirm that the length of the yoke-bodice seams of the bodice and yoke are equal.
Repeat for the back.
Confirm that the side seam lengths of the front and back are equal.
8 Tip:
I learned that it is important to look at the potential end result before I cut my fabric.
When grading an early pattern for my granddaughter, I increased the length of the bodice of a 2-piece bodysuit to accommodate her long torso. Although I graded correctly, I didn’t realize at first that the result made her torso look even longer. What I should have also done was move the waist seam up that joins the bodice to the panty and skirt.
I recommend that you double check the full front bodysuit pattern against your athlete before cutting the fabric. Remember that the pattern has built in “negative ease”. i.e. It is made smaller in width and length than the body. If I had done this, I should have identified that the waist seam was too low.
9 Custom Costume Patterns:
One of my goals is to make the process of design and sewing more efficient for making competition costumes. I began by purchasing commercial patterns and modifying them to create the desired fit and design.
Since then, I have designed base (“sloper”) bodysuit and skirt patterns using pattern making computer assisted drawing (CAD) software. Sloper patterns are the base that I use to create patterns for different bodysuit and skirt styles. I can create these patterns in standard sizes, or key in client-specific measurements to create a pattern for a custom design and fit.
NOTE: Making decisions about sizing or grading may involve some uncertainty. Take notes and first sew with a basting stitch and test the fit before continuing.
Best of luck with your pattern adventure! If you need assistance, feel free to reach out.
Did you find this guide helpful? Hit the like button or share your feedback with me via message.
Happy sewing,
Sandra
Comments