1. Introduction:
Thinking about DIY hair tie for your costume? It’s a simple addition that complements your costume and it's easy to make. Hair ties and scrunchies enhance the overall look of your costume design.
Sewing the edges with a rolled hem not only protect your fabric from fraying thereby providing durability, it gives your project a perfect finishing touch. This post sets out a quick and easy procedure using a serger or a sewing machine to DIY hair tie.
The goal for this project is to create a thick curly or lettuce rolled hem, similar to the edges shown in these examples:
2. Materials/ Supplies:
1/16 yd (.2 m) of stretch mesh (preferred) or spandex in a matching or complimentary colour to your costume at least 50” (127 cm) wide to make 2 ties. Typically you would use the same fabric that was used for your costume. You could make 2 from the same fabric or from different colours.
Serger (4 spools) or regular polyester sewing thread (1 spool)
Serger or Sewing machine
Rotary Cutter (New/ sharp blade; size 28/ 45 mm)
Self Healing Cutting Mat
Needle threader
3. Cutting:
Cut 2 strips 21” (53 cm) long x 2” (5 cm) wide with a rotary cutter on a cutting mat (recommended).
It is important that you make clean cuts on all sides. This will help to sew a polished final project.
Trim a little off each short end to make a pointed end.
4. Using a Sewing Machine – Set Up:
Suggested presser foot: Teflon or walking foot
Needle: stretch or ball point
Set your stitch type on your sewing machine to a satin or zig-zag stitch with a width of 5 and a stitch length between .2 - .5.
5. Using a Serger Machine – Set Up:
Set your serger machine to sew a “rolled hem” according to your machine manual with 4 thread spools. A rolled hem is a tiny, narrow hem created by rolling the edge of the fabric under itself and securing it with stitches.
Below are suggested serger machine settings that I used to sew stretch mesh with 4 threads:
Keep the knife engaged (optional; Keeping the knife engaged will trim any excess fabric as you sew.)
Set the change finger switch to R (rolled hem)
Lower looper tension slider: TIGHT
Stitch length: R
Differential: .5
Tension: 3-3-6-6 (this will vary with the fabric used)
Use regular serger thread in all 4 needles. You can experiment using 3 threads, but 4 provide a thicker result that is more ideal for this project.
If you would like to experiment combining colours, use a different colour/ specialty thread in the upper looper:
Upper looper: Use specialty threads E.g. metallic/ embroidery. See an example of a regular rolled hem with metallic thread on Ellie's latin competition costume here.
Lower looper, left and right needle: regular serger thread.
6. Procedure - Whether Using a Sewing & Serger Machine:
Test your settings on project scrap fabric before sewing on your project. Through testing you can identify a need to adjust your machine settings, width, fabric positioning and other application techniques before you work on your actual project. Document your test conditions and results to help identify the best combination of settings to use for your final project.
If sewing, fold the edge over about 1/8” (3 mm) with your fingers. If serging, the serger will automatically roll the edge over.
When sewing, position the needle on the edge of the fabric. As you start to sew, the left of the zig-zag should fall on the fabric, and the right over the rolled edge to secure the edge.
Sew/ serge a rolled hem on both sides of the fabric strip:
If you’re working with a fabric that has an obvious right side, then have the right side facing up; otherwise, the first side stitched becomes the right side. Sew along one long side and allow the machine to run off at the end leaving a tail.
Hold the fabric behind the presser foot, and stretch the fabric as you sew. The more you stretch, the wavier the edge.
Turn your fabric to sew the other side with right side facing up. Position the fabric under the presser foot (if using a serger, hold the tail as you start to help you stretch the fabric).
Sew over the starting tail/ point, continue to the other end and serge/ sew over the ending tail/ point. Each end should become a point.
Use a needle threader to help weave the thread tail ends through the rolled hem, hide the threads, knot and cut off the thread ends. The wire hoop of the needle threader allows you to pull thick thread like a serged tail through the eye of a needle.
7. Serging Tips:
If there are tiny threads peaking out from your serged hem, try widening the width or shortening the stitch length.
Position the fabric using the measurement guide and grooves on your machine. The amount of stretch mesh fabric used (approximately 1/8” (3 mm), will vary based on this positioning and the suggested serger settings outlined above and the type of fabric you are using.
With a little practice, you can make a hair tie that adds a professional look to your costume.
Need assistance? Feel free to reach out here.
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